Visiting Yakuoin Temple on Mt. Takao

Yakuoin (薬王院) is the Buddhist temple that most Mt. Takao visitors walk through on the way to the summit. It’s about 20 minutes on foot from the top of the cable car along Trail 1. Come for the halls, the tengu figures and, if you time it right, the goma fire ritual, held in the main hall several times every day.

The temple in brief

From the temple’s own pages:

• Full name: Takaosan Yakuoin Yukiji (高尾山薬王院有喜寺).
• Founded: in 744, by the priest Gyoki on the orders of Emperor Shomu.
• Sect: a head temple of the Shingon Chisan school, alongside Naritasan Shinshoji and Kawasaki Daishi.
• Main deity: Izuna Daigongen (飯縄大権現), a form of Fudo Myoo. It has been the main object of worship since the temple was revived in the 1370s.
• Mountain training: Takao has long been a place for shugendo, the ascetic practice of the yamabushi (mountain monks). The temple still runs waterfall training at Biwa and Jataki waterfalls.

The temple also notes that Takao was selected as a three-star destination in the first Michelin Japan guide, together with Mt. Fuji.

Getting there

Walking times from the temple’s own page:

From	Route	Time
Foot of Trail 1	Walk Trail 1 the whole way	About 70 min
Cable car (Takaosan Station)	Trail 1	About 20 min
Chairlift (Sanjo Station)	Trail 1	About 30 min
Yakuoin → summit	Trail 1	About 20 min

On the way you pass the Octopus Cedar (Takosugi) and Joshinmon Gate. After the gate the path splits into Otoko-zaka (108 stone steps) and Onna-zaka (a gentle slope), and the two meet again before the temple. For the trails, see our trail comparison. For transport from Tokyo, see the day trip from Shinjuku.

What to see

• The tengu. The temple describes them as attendants of Izuna Daigongen who bring good luck and drive away evil. The great tengu (大天狗) has a red face, a long nose and a fan. The small or crow tengu (小天狗 / 烏天狗) has a blue face, a crow’s beak and a sword.
• The main hall (大本堂). The goma ritual takes place here.
• The Izuna Gongen hall (飯縄権現堂), also called the main shrine (御本社). The temple describes it as decorated all over with painted carvings.
• Daishido, Shitennomon Gate and the Busshari-to stupa. The temple names these among its best autumn leaf spots. It calls the area around the stupa a quiet spot because it is a little off the trail. See Mt. Takao autumn leaves.

The goma fire ritual

The goma (御護摩) is an esoteric Buddhist ritual. A priest lights a fire of wooden sticks in front of the main deity, and prayers are offered as the flames rise. The temple holds it in the main hall every day.

Daily times (from the temple’s site):

	Time
Early morning service	5:30 (April 15–October 31) / 6:00 (November 1–April 14)
Morning	9:30, 11:00
Afternoon	12:30, 14:00, 15:30

To take part with a prayer, the temple describes these steps:

1. At the goma reception, fill in an application slip with your wish (for example, family safety or traffic safety).
2. Pay the goma fee. You receive a voucher and an offering.
3. About 15 minutes before the ritual, go into the main hall.
4. Take part in the ritual with the monks, then hand in the voucher.
5. Receive your goma talisman (ofuda) and take it home.

The temple’s site doesn’t list the fee on this page.

The temple’s home page shows whether today’s goma reception is still open.

Shojin ryori: vegetarian temple lunch

The temple serves shojin ryori, traditional Buddhist vegetarian food with no meat or fish, made from seasonal vegetables. You must book ahead.

	Details (from the temple’s site)
Menus	Takao-zen from ¥4,400, Tengu-zen from ¥3,300 (tax included; the menu changes by season)
Booking	By phone (042-661-1115, 9:00–16:00) or fax, at least 2 days ahead
Group size	From 2 people. Large groups by arrangement
Time	Served between 11:00 and 14:00
Seating	Japanese-style rooms with tables
Children	A children’s set is available
Allergies	Discuss when booking
Not available	Mid-December to early February, and on some event days

Phone booking in Japanese may be hard for overseas visitors.

Charms and souvenirs

The temple offers charms (omamori) all year. Its site lists a maple-leaf charm (もみじ札), charms for safe travel, good matches and passing exams, and one for strong legs and back pain. Tengu fans (天狗うちわ) are sold only from New Year’s Day to Setsubun (February 3), and cost ¥1,000, or ¥2,500 for the gold one.

Practical notes

• Etiquette: Takao is both a hiking spot and an active temple. Keep your voice down near the halls and follow any no-photo signs.
• Big days: Takao Tozan Railway’s list of annual events includes Yakuoin’s Setsubun (February 3), the fire-walking festival (second Sunday of March) and the autumn festival in October. Check the temple’s calendar for exact dates and expect crowds.
• Cable car hours: the last cable car down is between 17:15 and 18:30 depending on the month (later during the Beer Mount season). See the cable car guide.